Chinatown, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon (Bangkok), Thailand

Not the neighborhood you usually see, but times are changing.

This place had a Chinese label on the map at the time I visited. Since then, all of the maps have been updated with Thai names, if they are named at all. This one seems to be gone. They extended the subway here, and I think that all changed when they opened the stations.

What hasn’t changed is that Google Maps is amazing for this neighborhood. They have every last alley as a green line if you zoom in. I would say the resolution is something like 1 meter. You can walk around with your cellphone, and it will guide you around.

The night market scene here is great. It gets pretty hot during the day, so this is the time to hang out.

One thing about this neighborhood is that the food is incredible, even for BKK. This is a Michelin-starred street food stall: Pa Tong Go Savoey. But let Michelin tell you more. The famous Ráan Jay Fai is not far from here. It’s in all the guidebooks, so not a secret, but it’s good.

This is just around the corner from a favorite hotel of mine, Baan2459 Heritage Boutique Hotel. If you’re looking for a modern place with a big gym and a pool, this one is not for you. But if your 5G plan is working and you want to stay in a big old mansion, it’s great. There’s a good cafe in the front yard, too. They make the breakfast, but you eat it on the balcony.

This is Samsara. An alleged “hidden gem”, but it seems to be pretty famous. To be fair, you do have to walk by/through the somewhat chaotic Metal Recycling Shop to get there, so you’ll bump into confused tourists on your way out, but share your knowledge.

The food is fine, but it’s just pub fare. You’re really there to sit in a rickety wooden structure by the river. The women in the picture were super annoying. I think they spent an hour and a half getting up and taking influencer sunset pictures of each other. This was a moment of respite.

Get there right at 5pm when it opens, that’s the easiest time to get a seat, and I think it’s better than at night.

That’s Culture Café.